Paris's Left Bank Guide

Overflowing with enticing options at every turn, Paris's Left Bank, La Rive Gauche, including the historic students' stomping grounds, is now a salubrious mix of the top tourist attractions in the city, lovely shopping, and charming restaurants.

​Wondering how to spend your time on Paris's Left Bank, and where to eat when you're visiting the Eiffel Tower, Place des Invalides, and the Musee Rodin? Check out these suggestions! 

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Interested in exploring Paris's Left Bank?

GORGEOUS houses lining the parc

​Paris's Left Bank is home to some of its most stunning sites - the Eiffel Tower, Napoleon's Tomb, and the famous Rodin Museum, contained in the sculptor's former home. 

Depending on how much time you have, you could make a day of it or, like us, do the agenda below, and then come back for more (this is certainly not everything - just one day, which could easily be split into several!)

Visiting The Eiffel Tower

If you aren't staying in the Left Bank, start your day on this side of the Sine with a metro ride, or a nice walk, across the Seine to the Eiffel Tower. Arriving at the Eiffel Tower by metro, be sure to exit at the Trocadero stop, not the Eiffel Tower stop - it's slightly less crowded, and you'll start at an elevated point that's great for pictures.

Starting our visit to the Eiffel Tower!

Continue down the steps, through the crowds, and into the Champs de Mars Parc (a great French Revolution name, eh?)

From here, you'll get to see the Eiffel Tower from close-up, and, as you move through the Parc, from ground level, but far away. Opinions definitely vary on this, but I, personally am not hugely into spending a lot of time going into/up monuments. There is a large amount of security around the Eiffel Tower, and an absolutely massive number of tourists, even when we visited during a relatively quiet time of year. There are big tour bus drop-off areas right under the Tower and it's packed. If you do want to go up the Eiffel Tower, this is where you will do so. If this is important to you, go for it! If, like me, you'd rather spend your time away from the crowds, then carry on walking through the Parc. Strangely, just like that, the crowds evaporate. If you do not go through security, the picture below is about as close as you'll be able to get (note: security fence).

The Eiffel Tower (and its security fence)

Avoiding scams at the Eiffel Tower

BEWARE OF SCAMS DURING YOUR VISIT. 

Visiting the Eiffel Tower is an incredible and unforgettable experience. At or near the top of the to-do list of every visitor to Paris.

​However, as with all major tourist attractions through the world, the Eiffel Tower is a hotspot for low-level crime. This should not in any way deter you from visiting. I never felt even remotely unsafe in any real way. The French Police are EVERYWHERE.

The petty theft scheme of the moment is always changing, but while we were there, in late October, 2018, these were the scams that we saw personally:

• Bracelet scam: person, or a group of people, approaches you and starts making a bracelet on your wrist, without asking permission, and then insists that you buy the bracelet. Just remain calm, repeatedly say no, and just pull the string - it comes off. This can be avoided by not allowing them to make the bracelet in the first place. Pull away your hand. And. Just. Keep. Walking.
• Distracted while purchasing scam: pickpocketing you while you attempt to make a purchase from a street vendor. In my opinion, near the Eiffel Tower is just not the place to make a purchase. There are Eiffel Tower replicas and Christmas ornaments galore throughout Paris from reputable stores where you won't get robbed, and even online when you get home. Do you really want to take away from your time at the Eiffel Tower by purchasing trinkets?
• Petition scam: asking you to sign a petition and pickpocketing you while you do so. Funny how these petitions are conveniently written in English. Most of the ones we say had giant handicapped parking symbols at the top. Just keep walking and do not engage with these people. They may stand directly in front of you. Loudly say "Non" if they don't move. These aren't real petitions and no one asks tourists to sign real petitions anyway.
• Unnecessary directions: asking for directions and, you guessed it, pickpocketing you. Need I say it? Just keep moving - you can't give them directions anyway.

Take away: it's perfectly OK, and in fact encouraged, to be a bit rude. Just keep walking and see what you're here to see. This is a small group congregated in specific areas where most of the tourists are. It's like running a gauntlet and you'll quickly be through it. These people don't fill up the Parc surrounding the Tower - they're really just where the tour buses are and on the stairs near the Metro/where people are taking pictures. Don't talk to strangers unless it is 100% clear to you that they are a fellow tourist and you're willing to take a slight bit of a risk. (I did not experience this personally, but I have read about scams where people pretend to be tourists.) You can always just clearly shake your head and pretend not to speak whatever language they're speaking, even if you do.

Remember - it is far less common for people to talk to strangers in Europe than in the U.S. - just leave.

The Eiffel Tower

Lunch on Paris's Left Bank 

After you've wrapped up at the Eiffel Tower, if you're anything like me, you'll be ready to sit down, have lunch and a drink, and try to soak in the fact you just explored one of the most famous places in the world! Let me recommend Cafe le Bosquet, which is just a hop, skip, and a jump away.

The waitstaff are friendly and it's packed with locals on their lengthy and relaxing lunch breaks!

Try the caesar salad and don't forget the vin!
​Next stop: Les Invalides.

Les Invalides: Church and Napoleon's Tomb

Surprisingly close to the Champ de Mars and the Eiffel Tower, especially if you took that lunch break, is Les Invalides - an expansive testament to France's military might.

Never doing anything halfway, Napoleon's final resting place itself certainly does not disappoint. Originally a rest home and hospital for the veterans of France's many 17th-century wars, it's now home to Napoleon's tomb and a massive imperial war museum.

Begun in 1671, the transformation of Les Invalides into almost a shrine to the Emperor was complete when he was interred here in 1840, several decades after this actual death. Napoleon's tomb lies behind a stunning 17th-century church and under an incredibly ornate dome. It's an incongruous, yet architecturally stunning combination. In addition to viewing the original church itself, you can see Napoleon's tomb from above, and then taking a short (and non-scary) staircase down to see it from the angle shown in the photograph below. 

Napoleon's Tomb

Dome of allegories above the tomb

Statute of Napoleon across from his tomb

Les Invalides: The Imperial War Museum

When you've finished viewing the church itself and Napoleon's Tomb, continue into the impressive Imperial War Museum. Stay until your Husband has gotten his fill. Even this history buff couldn't make it through the whole place. It's shockingly huge. It does boast truly incredible displays of armor and other military regalia. 

There is a lovely gift shop full of Napoleon-themed merchandise. Imperial tea towels, galore (I am the proud owner of two).

The Imperial War Museum, Paris

Visiting the Rodin Museum

A very easy walk from Les Invalides, the Rodin Museum is an absolute treasure.

It houses not only the Rodin's work, but also his personal art collection, acquired during his lifetime while he lived in the stunning mansion.

The first stop - Le Penseur (with the dome above Napoleon's Tomb in the background)

The museum has both interior and exterior portions, in addition to a nice, outdoor cafe.

Me in action at the Rodin Museum's lovely cafe

After finishing the interior, take a turn around the grounds - more beautiful sculpture await! And the building itself is stunningly situated in perfectly manicured grounds.

Rodin museum, Paris

Where to shop on Paris's Left Bank

No day in Paris would be complete without some luxury shopping.

Depending on your shopping stamina, you'll want to plot your course accordingly. One can't-miss stop is the Hermes on Rue de Sevres - opened in 2010 in a former hotel swimming pool, the store itself is worth a visit, even if you don't spring for any merchandise.

​And, if are looking to buy, the sales people do a wonderful job making the shopping experience feel personalized and comfortable. I taught a lovely young Frenchman the word for "stirrup" as we looked at scares (amazing hand gestures had been involved up 'til that point!). A bit closer toward the Seine are a number of other nice boutiques, including a COS branch (one of my personal favorites).

Hermes, Paris

Hermes, Paris

Where to eat dinner on Paris's Left Bank

One of my personal favorites restaurants in France is my recommendation for a casual dinner - Au Vieux Colombier (65 Rue de Rennes, 75006 Paris). Au Vieux Colobier sits at a busy intersection with stunning views. Make sure to get a window seat to watch the crowds pass and try the escargot.

Aux Vieux Colombier

Views from Aux Vieux Colombier

Take a stroll in the Jardin du Luxembourg

Finally, stop by the Jardins de Luxembourg for an after dinner stroll. It's just as gorgeous as you're expecting, and so much better. Begun in 1612, with the construction fo the Luxembourg Palace by Marie de Medici (wife of King Henry IV of France), the garden has continued to grow with the palace, which is now the meeting place of the French Senate. Home to many statues, the garden is a lovely place to enjoy a relaxing walk, or grab a coffee. If you're a Les Miserables fan, this is where Cosette and Marius had their first (super romantic) meeting.

The Medici Fountain, Jardin du Luxembourg

Thanks for stopping by!

Have a wonderful visit!! xx ​And don't forget to subscribe to the blog emails, below, for my free, downloadable carry-on packing guide for Europe!

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