Craigmillar Castle and The Sheep Heid Inn, Edinburgh

Craigmillar Castle and The Sheep Heid Inn

8/6/2019

A gorgeous castle ruin in Edinburgh, accessible by public transit? Sign me up! Check out Craigmillar Castle, and grab a pint at the Sheep Heid Inn!

Craigmillar Castle, Edinburgh

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Interested in visiting Edinburgh's
Craigmillar Castle?

Interior of Craigmillar Castle, Edinburgh

Exploring Craigmillar Castle

As much as I love being a tourist, there are times when I’m tired of crowds. A half day spent at Craigmillar Castle and The Sheep Heid Inn can be the perfect respite!

We packed so much into our trip to Scotland, including the Scottish Highlands, St. Andrews, and a trip to Stirling, but even after all of that traveling, we ended up with a free day. It came down to hopping over to Glasgow or staying in Edinburgh and, experiencing a bad case of travel fatigue, we decided to stay close to home.

So, like any good travel blogger/historian, I googled "best castles near Edinburgh" and wow did I luck out. The New York Times had actually done a "36 Hours in Edinburgh" recommending Craigmillar and the Sheep Heid Inn, we saw it was easy to get to, and off we went!

I can honestly count our trip to Craigmillar among our best days in the U.K.

Craigmillar Castle

How to get to Craigmillar Castle
from central Edinburgh

Craigmillar Castle is accessible on the public bus from the center of Edinburgh. It’s not a short ride, but from the bus stop, you can walk to the Castle. That said, it is not clear how to get to the Castle from the bus stop, unless they've updated it since I was there. There are no signs. After a bit of walking around in a neighborhood, someone thankfully pointed us in the right direction.

You want Craigmillar Castle Road which, though obviously named, is a bit difficult to find. There's a walking path beside it, which we didn't realize until our descent. I would strongly recommend making a map on your phone and taking a photo beforehand. If you find the path right away, it's a quick walk, though it is largely uphill.

History of Craigmillar Castle

Craigmillar Castle has a long and tortured history, the most famous part of which, is the the infamous “Craigmillar Bond” - the arrangement to dispose of Mary, Queen of Scots’ troublesome husband, Lord Darnley. Did Mary know about the plans? That *essential* aspect is lost to history.

As time passed, Craigmillar had various owners; ultimately being purchased by Sir John Gilmour, who incorporated the Castle as a type of amusement on the estate of his more modern home - Inch House (which, sadly, is now a community centre).

By the 1700s, the ruin of Craigmillar Castle was already attracting droves of Romantically inspired tourists. Follow in their footsteps - I love the double layer of history. For those of us in the U.S., something that happened in the 18th century - the tourism alone - would warrant its own Ph.D. dissertation.

Courtyard entrance at Craigmillar

Visiting Craigmillar Castle

Tower at Craigmillar

Craigmillar Castle: The Basics

Once you walk up the hill, you’ll be gradually greeted by Craigmillar Castle looming majestically on a hill - a bit like Brigadoon.

Check Craigmillar Castle's website for opening times - they are restricted in off-season. There is a bathroom available on your way in - I was worried about that.

Exterior courtyard of Craigmillar Castle

Do you need a ticket to visit Craigmillar Castle?

Wondering what to pack for your trip? Check out What to Wear in Scotland, for all of the essentials!

View from the tower

Yes, you do need a ticket to visit Craigmillar Castle! You can pick up your reasonably priced tickets at the little ticket house upon your arrival. As of 2020, adults are 6 pounds/ person.

Fireplace, Craigmillar Castle

What should I see at Craigmillar Castle?

Spend some time exploring the stunning Craigmillar Castle. The main, and best preserved, portion of the castle is the tower, begun in the 14th century. Crawl through all the nooks and crannies (and feel your heart drop when you, lost in some forgotten room, when you are are surprised by another tourist).

Craigmillar is safe (some parts have been discreetly reinforced. Other parts are blocked off). As the Castle is not generally crowded, you can stand, completely alone, in rooms forgotten by time and ravaged by weather. Fun fact: Craigmillar Castle was featured in Outlaw King, with Chris Pine as Robert the Bruce (Fall, 2018).

View of Edinburgh from Craigmillar Castle

View of Arthur's Seat from Craigmillar Castle

Craigmillar Castle, Edinburgh

After you’ve had your fill of imagining medieval ramparts, intrigue, and sword fighting, it’s obviously time for a drink. (You could also hop on the bus and go back to Edinburgh…) If you’re in for the walk, turn left out of the Castle’s entrance, and go down the hill. Again, I would take a picture of a map, or (gasp!!) bring a real map, because it’s a mile and a half walk (on largely unmarked roads).

Learn how you can avoid making the top 10 Tourist Mistakes in Scotland!

The Oldest Pub in Scotland:
The Sheep Heid Inn, Duddingston

The Bonnie Prince at the Sheep's Heid

How to get to The Sheep Heid Inn from Craigmillar Castle

From the craggy, forgotten beauty of Craigmillar Castle, though the gritty reality of the surrounding area, you’ll walk past a small loch, and emerge in Duddingston - a former independent village, now subsumed into an Edinburgh suburb.

On the sweetest little street (left off the main road), you’ll find The Sheep Heid Inn - which many believe to be the first of many, many, many pubs in Scotland. Its website touts a 1360 establishment date.

Time for a pint at The Sheep Heid Inn

The Sheep Heid Inn, Duddingston, Edinburgh

The Sheep Heid is gorgeous - perfectly updated, yet charmingly historic. They’ve added a lovely outdoor drinking area and offer a full menu (more than just "pub" food). We stopped by on a Saturday afternoon, and the pub was in full swing. We ended up cramming into a small table with strangers, which was completely worth it.

Famous visitors to the Sheep Heid Inn

Your fellow drinkers may once have included Mary, Queen of Scots, and her son, James VI of Scotland (James I of England) - as the pub is situated exactly halfway between Holyrood Palace (home base of Scottish Royal Family) and Craigmillar Castle (where Queen Mary lived, for a time).

Getting back to Edinburgh from the Sheep Heid Inn

When you've wrapped up your time at the Sheep Heid Inn, go right out of the pub, back down the little street, then turn right again toward the main street that got you to Duddington, left and there’s a bus shelter (you’ll see it). The bus will take you back to the main parts of Edinburgh (make sure you get on going the right way!!), but be warned - the bus doesn’t come extremely often. Another option would be to have the Sheep’s Heid call you a cab, if you aren't able to use your phone.

Thanks for stopping by!

Hope you enjoy your trip to Craigmillar Castle and the Sheep Heid Inn as much as we did! Don't forget to sign-up for the blog newsletter to receive all of my Anglophile musings delivered straight to your inbox!

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