As much as I love being a tourist, there are times when I’m tired of crowds. While Edinburgh is not a particularly crowded city, after an extended stay, you may want a small escape, without going on a full-on day trip. A half day spent at Craigmillar Castle and The Sheep’s Heid Pub can be the perfect respite. Fun fact: Craigmillar Castle is featured in The Outlaw King, with Chris Pine as Robert the Bruce (Fall, 2018).
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Craigmillar Castle is accessible on the public bus from Edinburgh. It’s not a short ride, but it’s an easy one and from the bus stop, you can walk to Craigmillar. That said, it is not at all clear how to get to the Castle from the bus stop (there are no signs). We asked locals, who kindly pointed us in the right direction (you want Craigmillar Castle Road which, though obviously named, is a bit difficult to find. Additionally, there's a walking path beside it, which we didn't realize until our descent). I would make a map on your phone and take a photo beforehand, as the bus drops you in a subdivision, so you can’t exactly pound down doors asking for directions.
The Castle has a long and tortured history, most famous part of which, is the the infamous “Craigmillar Bond” - the arrangement to dispose of Mary, Queen of Scots’ troublesome husband, Lord Darnley. Did Mary know about it? That essential aspect is lost to history.
As time passed, the Castle had various owners; ultimately being purchased by Sir John Gilmour, who incorporated the Castle as a type of amusement on the estate of his more modern home - Inch House (now a community centre). By the 1700s, the site was already attracting droves of Romantically inspired tourists. Follow in their footsteps - I love the double layer of history. In the U.S. something that happened in the 18th century - the tourism alone - would warrant its own Ph.D. dissertation.
Once you walk up the hill, you’ll be gradually greeted by the Castle looming majestically on a hill - a bit like Brigadoon. Check the website for opening times - they are restricted in off-season. That said, grab your ticket at the little ticket house upon your arrival - adults are 6 quid - definitely the cheapest tourist attraction we’d hit in a while. Continue into the Castle (WC is available on your way in - I was worried about that).
Spend some time exploring the stunning Castle. The main, and best preserved, portion of the castle is the tower, begun in the 14th Century. Crawl through all the nooks and crannies (and feel your heart drop when you, lost in some forgotten room, when you are are surprised by another tourist). The Castle is safe (some parts have been discreetly reinforced. Other parts are blocked off). As the Castle is not generally crowded, you can stand, completely alone, in rooms forgotten by time and ravaged by weather.
After you’ve had your fill of imagining medieval ramparts, intrigue, and sword fighting, it’s obviously time for a drink. (You could also hop on the bus and go back to Edinburgh…) If you’re in for the walk, turn left out of the Castle’s entrance, and go down the hill. Again, I would take a picture of a map, or (gasp!!) bring a real map, because it’s a mile and a half walk (on largely unmarked roads).
The Sheep's Heid
From the craggy, forgotten beauty of the Castle, though the gritty reality of the surrounding area, you’ll walk past a small loch, and emerge in Duddington - a former independent village, now subsumed into an Edinburgh suburb. On the sweetest little street (left off the main road), you’ll find The Sheep’s Heid Inn - which many believe to be the first (of many, many) pubs in Scotland. Famous visitors have included Mary, Queen of Scots, and her son, James VI of Scotland (James I of England) - as the pub is situated exactly halfway between Holyrood Palace (home base of Scottish Royal Family) and Craigmillar (where Mary lived, for a time).
The Sheep’s Heid is gorgeous - perfectly updated, yet charmingly historic. They’ve added a lovely outdoor drinking area and offer a full menu (more than just 'pub' food). We stopped by on a Saturday afternoon, and the pub was in full swing (we ended up cramming into a small table with strangers, which was completely worth it). When you’re all set, go right out of the pub, back down the little street, then turn right again toward the main street that got you to Duddington, left and there’s a bus shelter (you’ll see it). The bus will take you back to the main parts of Edinburgh (make sure you get on going the right way!!), but be warned - it doesn’t come extremely often. Another option would be to have the Sheep’s Heid call you a cab (if your phone isn’t working).
You don't have to wear a tweed vest, but I'd highly recommend it.
Thanks for stopping by - enjoy and happy travels! xx
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